2 Philips Screw Driver
T15 Screw Driver
11/64 Drill Bit
Fuel Pump Socket
Silver Sharpie
Fuel line disconnect pliers
Fuel vent removal tool
1/2 inch breaker bar
Nickle
11mm socket
7mm socket
1/4 extension
Small hand saw
Nose Pick

Small Split Loom
Fuel Line Adapter
Fuel Line Clamps Larger

16” of fuel line from bottom of pump to rubber fuel line adapter

• Remove driver side seat plastic that is above the fuel pump access cover with 3 T15 screws if its there. We've seen some with and some without this plastic cover.
• Remove upper and lower access covers between front seats to access top of fuel tank. Upper cover you can use a coin line a quarter to turn. The lower cover is 3 #2 philips screws. Put very little down pressure on these screws to prevent the plastic clips from popping out. See Photo A and B
• Check to see if there is a mark showing the orientation of the clamp ring. If there is no mark use a silver sharpie or something similar to mark it.
• Carefully remove all connections. All have 2 sides that need to be pressed. Some of the second sides are on the bottom. If pressed they should wiggle off without pulling very hard. Use the special pliers for the smaller ones and the slide over for the bigger vent line as the bottom button is quite hard to press without.
• Lots of photos from 3-27-25
• Clean the top of the fuel pump and tank with vacuum and or compressed air
• Protect regular fuel line with a deep socket and cut top of aux line right below clip rib with a hack saw blade. See photo C
• Run an 11/64” drill bit through it to open up the hole up enough for the plastic line to fit through. See photo D
• Cut the factory black line on the straight part that the other fuel line no longer fits inside of
• Take the rubber fuel line adapter and cut the larger side shorter so it is about the same length as what’s left of the AUX line that you cut down. See photo E
• Spray some windex or similar onto the espar line and slide the adapter 16 inches down the larder espar fuel line (4x1mm) line small end first. Use the bigger clamps that come with the heaters and slide lower clamp on lose and tighten the upper clamp that goes down on the plastic line. See photo F
• Slide the line down into the AUX port you cut off and push the big side of the rubber addapter down over it. Tighten the lower fuel line clamp
• Take a piece of the line that was cut off and slice it down the middle and slide it over the espar line.
• It’s a very snug fit but if you put the slit factory line down in the clip in the fuel pump with some pressure it will slide through. This way the line is well attached to the pump and having it stay snug is important as if it pops out the customers heater will stop when there is still plenty of fuel in the tank. If it’s too snug to pop in cut the part down to about a ¼” and that makes it easier for it to pop in. Use something metal or hard to push with as your finger may not be enough. See photo G
• Slide smaller split loom down the plastic fuel line and wrap electrical tape around both ends. It should be 950mm long
• You can now pop the fuel pump back in. Be careful not to break any of the lines going to it.
• Orient it back to how it was based on the mark you made or was already there. Have the bottom of the pump directly below and press down. Take the ring and slide it over. Line up factory chalk or sharpie line so once tight it will line up. You should be able to get it on just enough for it to stay down with your hands.
• Get the fuel pump socket tool, ½ ratchet and a little extra pipe. It takes real pressure but will pop into place. You will see the white chalk line line up.
• Connect fuel and electrical cables
• Now route the line backwards and down. It should be an easy bend for the line out the top.
• Go ahead and put the metal cover back on and the floor hole cover. Be careful not to push the plastic threaded inserts out the bottom of the metal.

Photo A

Photo B

Photo C

Photo D

Photo E

Photo F

Photo G